Stretch velvet day 2

Having experienced sewing with Crushed Panne before and without the greatest results I figured it a good idea to look for tips in sewing stretch velvet, this was the best I came across Stretch Velvet Sewing. Though after spending time basting seams, something I rarely do, I wasn't pleased with the seams so I took out all the basting and pinned instead. Much quicker.

It was recommended to use a walking or roller foot, I just so happen to have a walking foot.




The foot installed, it's arm sits over the needle screw and when the needle raises, it lifts the arm which works the walking part of the foot.
Test sewing, the first sample the stitches are too small, the fabric puckering and the seam gaping, with longer stitches - 3.5 setting on my machine the seam lies flat.
I finger pressed the seam open, I don't think pressing was needed. I was worried about crushing the pile or burning an image of the iron into the fabric.

Shoulder seams were taped, I only had extra wide tape so cut it in half. Didn't want to risk it shrinking so I wet and then ironed it dry. The taping will prevent the shoulder seam from stretching and should be done on all stretch fabric shoulders.

I hadn't done any fitting and ran the risk of it not fitting, was very pleased at the first fitting and found it fitted quite well. When the band is added to the centre front it will do up nicely.


My next dilemma is deciding what to do inside. I don't want to overlock (serge), had thought of Hong Kong seam finish using satin bias binding or even just turning the cut edge of the seam under it's self. I may just line the bodice if I can find the fabric for it.