Saturday, 18 June 2011
Sewing with Stretch Velvet. Sort of tutorial.
Recently I decided I wanted a stretch velvet coat or jacket, it started with some velvet cushion covers at work and a day or so later a friend mentioned wanting a green velvet jacket. I had a clear vision of what I wanted in deep red or purple. The covers came in a divine purple.
I found the stretch velvet fabric in spotlight, waiting till I could use a discount voucher, I could only get the purple but yesterday I found the red in a different branch. Will see how this one turns out.
Pattern pieces, pressed and cut out - always on the line, not inside or outside but so you can see the line. Cutting either inside or outside the line adds extra dimensions, making the finished article smaller or bigger, pieces won't fit together accurately.
Fold stretch velvet in half lengthways, pin within the selvage edge to keep from sliding. Fold with velvet on the outside, it prevents the pile catching on it's self.
Layout pattern pieces, I have not followed layout in pattern instructions, because I bought more fabric.
To ensure grain is correct, measure from grain line to selvage edge, from the base and top of grain line.
First cut, I bought new scissors for the task - always use sharp scissors and never ever cut paper with your dressmaking scissors. It actually blunts them, it's the same in reverse too, don't cut fabric with your paper scissors. And do not under any circumstances ever cut the cat's stitches with dressmaking scissors - I don't care if stitches are classed as sewing. Mum do you hear me? You can see I pinned the piece, only pin in seam allowance, velvet is unforgiving and can show pin marks.
Nick into positioning marks - do not cut the whole triangle out a straight nick from centre of mark to tip of triangle is all that is needed.
Blurry picture of a tailor's tack, instead of using chalk or marker to mark each point I stitched tailor's tacks. To do this, put a threaded needle straight into centre of circle mark, do not lean it to the side it must be straight. Pull thread through leaving long tails at both ends.
Gently pull apart fabric without pulling stitches out.
Cut thread. Each thread marks a fitting spot and corresponds with another mark on another piece of pattern.
I only cut out the bodice tonight, I want to work on those before cutting out the sleeves and skirt of the coat. If at any point you get tired don't keep on, tiredness brings on mistakes and mistakes on velvet can be costly.
To be continued.
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