Pattern resizing and Knitted Mitts

Today I decided to start on the making of my dress but found I made the same mistake I make almost everytime I use a pattern. I forget that I need to go up 2 or 3 sizes to what I wear in off the rack clothing. Even in off the rack clothes I find in some stores the sizing is so different, I have sizes 16, 18 and even 20 in my wardrobe and they all fit.

I sure wasn't going to buy another pattern so decided to put my long lost pattern grading skills into practice. A quick search on the net found this site Re-sizing patterns, I just needed to make sure I remembered correctly. First I traced off the pattern on to tracing paper, adding all markings from the pattern and drew lines where I was going to slash the pattern. You will notice on the above site that there are 3 slash lines, I only used 2. Didn't add extra to the shoulder straps because I thought they were wide enough, it is mentioned in the text. I cut the pattern along the lines and used the 'slash and slide' method of grading. I thought about taking photos of the process but was too eager to get started.



On some art paper I drew a vertical line and a horizontal line at right angles. Laying the centre front foldline onto the vertical line, matching the 'lengthen here' line printed on the pattern to the horizontal line, this now becomes my slide line. Taped the first panel down, then measured half an inch from the cut line, ruled another vertical line. I placed the centre panel against this line, matching horizontal lines. Did the same for the third panel.

This completed the resizing part, I added an inch in total to the paper pattern piece, which means 2 inches to the front. Plus another 2 to the back, used the grainline to match the vertical line on that as the centre back of the pattern has shaping. Could have stopped there but due to a large bust I needed to also add length to the bodice. To do this I slashed along the 'lengthen here' line (had purposely not taped the bottom of the pattern to the paper) and added an inch in length by sliding the pieces down then taping into place. Redrew the darts by following the slope of the dart from the bottom creating a new point.

All I needed to do then was redraw the cutting lines between the slashes and cut out the pattern.

Used some scrap fabric to cut out a mock up of the vest for a fitting to see how well it worked. The sizing was perfect, the only thing I will change is the darts on the front, they finish right on my natural bust point, they need to be about an inch lower.

For the skirt part of the dress it will be as simple as adding 1 inch to the centre front and back panels.

I loved the feeling when I found it would all come together, I love getting my creative juices moving. Am planning to get started on the making on Thursday, tomorrow I need to work and will be looking for the fabric for the jacket part of the outfit afterwards.

Here is a pic of the fingerless gloves I made for my Mother in Law. I made them in Patons Smoothie to match the Tam I made her for Mother's Day.